I didn’t think I would be blogging this quickly; my initial thought was hey let's do it once a week. However, while opening a bottle of wine with my good friend J. Mack (credit given at the end), we began discussing the cork vs. the screw cap. It is widely thought that the screw cap is for cheap wines and the cork for the finest wines, you know, real high quality stuff! Well, I've opened many a selection under 7 dollars with a cork and I have to say YUCK! If that's quality bring on the screw cap!
So where does this idea of a cheap screw and a good corking come from? It is true that this question not only puzzles us but also tears apart the hearts of winemakers around the world. But the thinking of which to use goes deeper than just how people rate the quality of the wine, it’s a conversation more about the best way to preserve and save the wine from contamination. That's right, contamination. One out of ten wines are being contaminated by their own corks by a compound called TCA which reacts badly with mold already in the cork making it very harmful to humans. Wait, don't be afraid! Keep drinking you'll be fine. The industry knows there is a problem and is working successfully to control it. However, this problem is becoming more and more serious with corks because the quality of corks is very low grade. There just aren't any high quality corks out there anymore. Slim pickins! This is because more and more people are buying and drinking wine which means more wine is being bottled rather than sold in bulk barrels.
Because quality corks are essentially running out or unavailable, wineries are using screw caps and synthetic cork made mostly of plastic. Now while the synthetic corks are being used by many producers, screw caps are becoming the favorite for a couple of reasons; first they can cause plastic tainting of the wine (leaves a bad taste) and second they are very difficult to remove. I can’t tell you how many of those fancy rabbit corkscrews I have had to toss because the synthetic gets stuck on the screw part. Because of this difficulty screw caps are being used more and more, I would say in 5 years time you will see a very large increase in these caps on some of your favorite wines; some of my favorites already have screw caps. Now as is this case anytime we talk about adopting new ways, many wine "connoisseurs" are upset with this move to screw caps, but I say in the spirit of "change" who cares how a wine is closed as long as what's in it is great! So far I have been very happy with the quality of the screw cap wines I've had.
Of course it will be up to the producers to decide how to bottle their wines and in terms of production there is an argument that begins in France (one of the oldest and best wine producers) that the natural cork allows for slow oxygenation to age certain types of wines. Others believe that it’s the oxygen within the wine along with the air between the cap and the wine that aides this process. Until producers are using the screw caps over long periods of time like they have with natural corks (some Bordeaux wines lay on their sides for 5-50 years) the jury is out on aging a wine with the cap. Until then, much like a fine wine changes over time, so to will the industry when it comes to screw caps!
Recommendations for great screw cap wines:
While many screw cap wines tend to be white, I have chosen 3 wines 2 of which are reds because I think screw caps are harder to find in a high quality red.
I'm starting with a white and one of my favorites which happens to be a chardonnay. The 2006 Domaine Laroche reserve De L'Obedience Grand Cru is one of the finest French burgundy wines I have had. One of the top producers in France and one of the only french producers that has embraced the screw cap for its finest selection. Many have said their wines are better now then they ever were with the screw cap. When I tasted this I immediately noticed the acidity sort of like eating fresh citrus fruit; light, fruity and tasty. Something you are sure to enjoy this spring on your roof deck or porch while grilling. I'm giving this one 91 pts and I think you will too!
Now bring on the reds! When it comes to screw caps New Zealand is at the forefront. Reds and Whites they screw most everything! The 2007 Amsfield Pinot Noir has been praised for its high quality, high end taste. As is customary with a pinot noir it has tremendous dark fruit flavors like big cherries and plums balanced with low tannins to reduce the dry or furry feeling on your tongue. After swishing this around in mouth a few times I felt 88pts was fair. Enough to keep me wanting more after the first glass.
Ahh plumpjack! If you haven't tried a plumpjack you definitely should. While expensive, I chose to review this wine to demonstrate that you can get very high end wine in a screw cap. The Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon is absolutely gorgeous! Dark, rich and full of big red fruit. Not overly tannic so you get the fruit without the fur! There is also no reason to wait for this one to mature, drink it now.
-2006 Domaine Laroche Reserve De L'obedience, France 91pts $70.00
-2007 Amsfield Pinot Noir, New Zealand 88pts $25.00
-2005 Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon, California 93pts $80.00
Definition of the Day:
Tannins - The definition of tannins is pretty scientific, so I'm going to break it down like this, found in the skins of grapes. When you read or hear a wine described as having high tannins it has the effect of making wine difficult to drink compared to a wine with a lower level of tannins. Tannins can be described as leaving a dry and puckered feeling with a "furriness" in the mouth.
-A
This Blog inspired by J. Mack
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